A History of Czech Glass Buttons: A Legacy of Craftsmanship
The fascinating history of Czech glass buttons originates in the Jablonec region, nestled in the Jizera Mountains. This area, rich in natural resources, became the epicenter of glass button production, blending artistry with innovation over centuries.
Early Beginnings: The Birth of Glass Buttons
- The earliest known button maker in the Jablonec region was Heinrich Heydrich (born 1703), who initially crafted buttons from tin.
- By the 1760s, glass from the Jizera Mountains began to be used for button production, starting with lampwork glass set into metal bases. Around the same time, pressed glass buttons emerged, featuring highly faceted, diamond-cut designs embedded in metal settings.
- Production of glass insets for metal buttons continued until the 1820s, when innovations led to the first pressed and cut glass buttons without metal bases (around 1829-1832).
The Rise of Pressed Glass Buttons
- Pressed glass buttons were made by heating glass rods and pressing them into molds using metal tongs. By the late 1820s, this trade had spread throughout the Jizera Mountains, with dozens of pressing plants marked by their iconic tall chimneys.
- By the second half of the 1800s, the industry grew to include 160 pressing plants, and certain towns became hubs for glass button production.
Key milestones during this period include:
- Smržovka (1835-1845): Production of luxurious lustre cameo buttons, which commanded high prices.
- Growth of specialized craftsmanship, including engravers creating intricate impression molds for pressing buttons.
- By 1864, the industry saw rapid expansion, with manufacturers offering a variety of button types, primarily made from black glass, which was highly fashionable at the time.
Technological Advancements and the Golden Age
- Technological improvements in the later 1800s allowed for the production of thousands of button designs, ranging from affordable pressed buttons to luxurious hand-painted and intricately cut pieces.
- The introduction of glass loops (replacing metal loops) marked a significant innovation during this era.
- By 1885, the Jablonec region boasted 176 button producers, despite economic challenges that spurred continuous innovation.
- The trend for hand-painted designs faded in the 1880s, replaced by a resurgence of black glass designs.
Challenges and Resilience
The early 20th century brought challenges, including unfair foreign competition, but once again, Jablonec manufacturers adapted by introducing colored glass, lacy buttons, and lampwork buttons for gloves and waistcoats.
- Despite the luxury market thriving, competition, market oversaturation, and the impacts of war dampened the industry.
- During the interwar period, the glass button industry found stability, with centralized production and proprietary pressing molds giving Czech producers an edge.
- Peak export years included 1928, when 2132 tons of buttons were exported, with one-third heading to the USA.
However, the 1930s economic downturn, coupled with competition from plastic and wood buttons, led to a decline. Still, there was a brief rise in the production of silver-colored and gold-plated buttons.
War, Nationalization, and Modern Decline
- After 1938, foreign markets were lost, and the German army became the primary customer during wartime.
- Post-World War II saw a brief resurgence, with the USA demanding glass buttons. In 1948, the industry was nationalized under Skleněná bižuterie, consolidating 143 companies and nearly all button makers.
- By 1952, state-run enterprises PZO Jablonex and Železnobrodské sklo were established, ensuring the industry’s survival throughout the 20th century, albeit with peaks and troughs.
The 1990s marked the decline of this once-thriving industry due to political changes, competition from modern materials, and the restructuring of state industries.
The Legacy of Czech Glass Buttons
The history of Czech glass buttons reflects a story of artistry, resilience, and innovation. From humble beginnings in the Jizera Mountains to commanding global recognition, these buttons symbolize the rich cultural heritage of the Jablonec region. Even as the industry faced challenges, the legacy of Czech glass buttons endures as a testament to craftsmanship and creativity.